Satya Paul, the Indian designer who invented the fashionable sari, has died on the age of 79. His son, Puneet Nanda, mentioned in a Facebook put up that the designer had suffered a stroke in early December from which he had not recovered.
Paul revolutionised the concept of the sari for Indian girls, transferring it past a utilitarian ethos. He used experimental touches like geometric patterns, and sudden materials equivalent to muga and tussar silks, chiffon and crepe, to revitalise the silhouette.
Paul additionally pioneered the “trouser sari” – a touchstone of contemporary sartorial independence for Indian girls and a pointy U-turn away from the normal Banarasi sari.
“I at all times considered him as an artist,” designer Kaushik Velendra informed the Guardian. “He labored together with his colors like a painter.”
Paul was born in 1942 in Layyah, in what’s now Pakistan, earlier than his household moved to India. “My household was uprooted from Pakistan and landed in India with nothing in hand,” he informed DNA India journal. He started his profession in retail, earlier than transferring into the area of interest market of Indian heirlooms which he exported to Europe and the US.
With no formal design coaching, he launched his first sari boutique, L’Affaire, in 1980. “I needed to self-teach myself about design and high quality, as I used to be not content material solely with buying and selling,” he informed DNA India.
In 1986 he began his eponymous label. Worn by Indian celebrities equivalent to Aishwarya Rai, Mandira Bedi, Karisma Kapoor, Kareena Kapoor and Vidya Balan, it grew to become probably the greatest identified style manufacturers within the nation. “Design is sort of a river for me,” he informed DNA India. “It’s constantly on.”
The label diversified into different merchandise together with ties – which grew to become as well-known as its saris – and clothes, purses, scarves and kaftans.
At its coronary heart the Satya Paul model was about “making folks really feel higher about themselves by sporting his garments. It’s one of the best ways he represented what India stands for,” mentioned Velendra.
Paul and his son Nanda, whom he partnered with, exited the corporate in 2010.
Designer Osman Yousefzada informed the Guardian: “Rising up in Birmingham within the 90s, there was [a] sari emporium on Stratford Highway which was a mecca of saris. It bought Satya Paul and the well-heeled immigrants would go and take a look at on his stunning materials of their new, gray homeland. His use of color and materials has at all times impressed me.”
Posting on Instagram, designer Masaba Gupta highlighted the significance of Paul’s legacy, writing that the designer was “a real instance of an precise (homegrown) model: put in company fingers on the proper time and one with a signature that may stand the take a look at of time. Vogue colleges – please introduce younger Indian design aspirants to this model in colleges and varied different homegrown manufacturers. We could be impressed by the story of Chanel … however we should study what occurred on our soil first.”
Velendra mentioned Paul had modified style in India by placing his stamp on to every part he designed, regardless of how large or small. “[Paul’s] private involvement in every part has created a benchmark that lots of different designers have adopted,” he mentioned. “Even when it was industrial, even when it was extravagant, it was private. In that context, he created an instance of how we should always all work. That’s one thing that may by no means be forgotten.”